As winter kicks in, we’re asking our team of tailors to give us the lowdown on their individual taste, style and extensive tailoring knowledge. One tailor at a time, the second in our series sees James Graham-Brown in conversation with Beth Bisney, at The Service, 32 Savile Row, the street’s only dedicated coffee shop, exhibition and retail space.
B: That’s a very autumnal colour palette you’re sporting today James.
J: It is indeed! I’ve based it on these new cord trousers that I’m giving a trial run around Savile Row.
B: Yes let’s talk about these. The first pair of trousers in Cad’s ready-to-wear collection, is that right?
J: Yep, they’re the first. These are the olive, from a collection of three colourways, the other two being dark navy and a creamy corn colour. They’re all flat fronted with buckle side adjusters in a nice heavy 8 wale corduroy (that’s a hefty 8 cord ribs per inch of fabric).
B: Just looking at the sample cards, the cloth has a composition of 97% cotton and 3% elastane.
J: That’s right. The 3% gives the trousers just a touch of stretch, making them super comfortable and easy to wear; 100% cotton corduroy can be quite rigid and restricting.
B: Especially in a trouser, I’d imagine.
J: Exactly. For jackets that stiffness is fine but with a pair of trousers you really want them to move with you.
B: So, what would you typically wear your cords with? Have you got any styling tips up your sleeve for keeping warm and looking sharp through the wintery weather?
J: To be honest, you’ve caught me on a good day today, I’m quite pleased with this look! The olive cords, a burnt orange chunky knit lambswool jumper, from Percival Menswear, layered over my warmest tee, topped off with an Oatmeal Wool Gilet also from the Cad ready-to-wear range. A totally autumnal palette if ever there was one.
As far as seasonal dressing goes, winter is by far my favourite because it’s all about the outerwear. Taking it from the top, for me a greatcoat is the smartest and hardest working of all the overcoats, followed by a pea coat, for its distinctive style and ease of everyday wear.
All manner of chunky knits and fine merino jumpers work just as well under these coats as they do layered with overshirts, wax jackets and gilets. Pair with the cords in any of the three staple colours (olive, navy, cream) for a head to toe winter warmer feel. Not forgetting the addition of a good scarf, for that all important finishing touch – I feel everyone should have their signature scarf!
B: Thanks James, some great ideas there. No doubt we’ll see you in a few of these looks on the Gram soon.
J: Indeed!
Our ready-to-wear cord trouser collection is available to pre order now. Please email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk with enquiries.