An Informal Guide to Morning Dress with Alex McKie
An Informal Guide to Morning Dress with Alex McKie
With the social season now in full swing, invitations for weddings, race fixtures and other summer formal events are arriving thick and fast, along with the inevitable question: what exactly does one wear?
To help navigate one of menswear’s most traditional dress codes, we asked Head of Bespoke, Alex McKie, for his top tips and insights into dressing for the occasion.
From proportion and cloth choice to where the rules can be relaxed, this is his guide to getting morning dress right.
1. Respect the rules - but don't be ruled by them.
Morning dress can feel a little daunting at first. Largely because there’s such a strong sense that there’s a “right” way to do it. Black coat, striped trousers, buff waistcoat, polished oxfords, even the top hat to x inches above the crown of your head.
And to be fair, tradition does matter. In a world full of endless choice (and the fatigue that comes with it), having a clear framework to lean on can actually be quite reassuring.
But that’s exactly how it should be seen, a framework, not a set of handcuffs. I always tell clients that while it’s important to look properly turned out (we’ve all seen the occasional miss in the Royal Enclosure), it’s just as important that you still feel like yourself in what you’re wearing.
That’s where the enjoyment comes in. The waistcoat cloth and colour, the cut of the trousers, and your choice of accessories are all areas where you can relax the rules a touch, add some personality, and have a bit of fun with it.
2. Proportion is everything.
If there's one thing that separates elegant morning dress from awkward morning dress, it's proportion.
The coat needs enough skirt to create movement, but not so much that it looks like you might take flight any moment. The waistcoat should sit cleanly and show enough beneath the coat to frame the shirt and tie properly.
The rise of the trouser I believe however is the most crucial component. Low rise trousers force a longer waistcoat which throws the whole outfit off. A high rise elongates the leg and gives you more stature.
Morning dress is not forgiving when the balance is off, but it is extremely flattering and - dare I say - empowering, when the balance is right.
3. Comfort is essential.
Many people assume morning dress is something to be endured. But if cut properly, from the right cloth, it should be a joy to wear.
You're wearing these garments all day. You're sitting, standing, walking across lawns, climbing into cars (or carriages), and doing it all under the heat of the British sunshine. A high armhole, a correctly balanced coat, room enough through the chest and seat, a robust yet lightweight cloth, these details make the difference between being composed until the end of the day, and looking dishevelled by the time the first toast comes around. I find high-twist wool is ideal here, offering the structure you want at the right weight, while remaining breathable enough to keep you comfortable, even on the hottest days.
A strong choice for the coat is Harrison’s Spring Ram. At 13oz, it delivers the structure a longer coat demands, while still offering enough breathability to keep you comfortable throughout the day.
Continuing the high-twist theme, we at Cad tend to favour a houndstooth trouser. You’ll find some excellent options from Dugdale Bros & Co in their Tropicalair bunch, or in Oracle from Yorkshire Textile Company, which is where mine are from.
4. Don't take it too seriously.
There can be a tendency with formal clothing to become hyper aware of every detail - whether your tie is sitting perfectly, whether your cuffs are showing enough, whether your waistcoat is the exact shade of dove grey as dictated by some gentleman in 1894.
But at a certain point, you do have to let go of it all a little. Try a different waistcoat cloth, perhaps a linen in a brighter colour, or explore something like the Serenity bunch from Dugdale Bros. & Co, which offers a range of shades that will set you apart from the usual run of buff and grey.
Add slips to your waistcoat. Opt for a black loafer instead of an Oxford if that feels more like you. Dig out the pocket watch you never quite have an excuse to wear.
Embrace the rules, certainly, but don’t be afraid to make them your own.
Feeling Inspired?
Book your Bespoke Consultation or simply get in touchto discuss ideas, options and styling for your next event here.
