In the world of bespoke tailoring, it’s the jacket and trousers that get all the attention. A pity, as the most flattering suit in the world won’t make much of an impression if it is paired to an ill-fitting or poorly coordinated shirt.

 It’s in that spirit that we now direct your attention to that most unsung yet essential component of any tailored ensemble, the shirt. And more specifically, how you might navigate the myriad options of styling and fabric that bespoke shirtmaking affords to find the best base layer for your own needs.

Collars

No design decision so impacts the impression that a shirt will make as its collar. Imagine the same fabric being made into two shirts: one with a button-down collar, and one with a spread. It would be apparent to even the sartorial novice that the former could also be worn on the weekends under a sweater, while the latter would make a smarter impression with a jacket and tie.

But it would be a mistake to consider the choice of the collar in isolation of the wearer. That’s because the collar acts as a frame for the face and will do so most effectively if its proportions flatter said countenance.

In general, rounder faces are best complemented by collars with long, straight points which have a thinning visual effect. Relatedly, more narrow faces are best matched to spread collars that angle away from the face, creating more negative space between the end of the collar points and a tie. There is a great diversity among the latter category of collars, which goes from semi spread to cutaway.

Between these modern standards are the somewhat archaic, if still enjoyable in a dandyish way, styles including the club collar, the tab collar and the eyelet collar. Meanwhile, the casual spectrum is served by the button down collar (particularly when left soft with no fusing or underlining), the vintage inspired band collar and the holiday favorite Riviera collar.

Cuffs 

Broadly speaking, shirt cuffs come in two flavors: buttoned or French. Button cuffs, just as the name would suggest, are secured by a button closure, whereas the more complex (some might even say fussy) French cuff is made with more fabric so that it folds over itself, at which point it is secured via cufflinks.

Cuffs can be made to feel a little smarter by virtue of an extra button, but French cuffs will always outfox the competition on the formality scale (relatedly, it’s the sole styling choice to be considered when commissioning a tuxedo shirt).

A midway between the two is the cocktail cuff, which is seen rarely in nature but was famously sported by Sean Connery in Dr. No. In this style, the fabric at the end of the arm is folded over like a French cuff, but the opening is secured via buttons, rather than requiring links to seal.

Pockets 

In comparison to collars and cuffs, the criteria for evaluating pockets is far simpler. Namely, the more pockets, the more casual a garment will be perceived. Work shirts will often have two upper chest pockets, while sport shirts will be reserved to a single chest pocket. Any shirt intended for more formal wear, whether that be suit-and-tie dressing at the office or a tuxedo, should be made without pockets. 

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Further Styling Considerations

There are a number of styling considerations that may influence the perception of your shirt. A placket, being the raised strip of fabric that covers the buttonholes, is a more casual feature and a standard for sport shirts. Formal shirts, on the other hand, can be made with a “fly” or French front that is made without the extra fabric for a sleeker appearance. 

Meanwhile, the back of the shirt can be made with a large, centered “box” pleat to afford greater movement. Box pleats play on the more casual side, and a similar range of motion can be achieved more subtly by opting for side, or “knife”, pleats instead.  

Overshirts 

As dress codes have settled into our more dressed-down present, the overshirt has emerged as a smart-casual alternative to the sport jacket. While overshirts can be made from tweed or linen for a more rugged feel, they can also be constructed from traditional suiting materials like hopsack or wool-cashmere to serve as a comfortable, travel-friendly option that still cleans up nice with a proper pair of trousers and sleek loafers. 

Fabrics

The options for shirting are myriad. But you’ll be in the right hands digging through any of the books that follow: Essentials of Firenlust from Thomas Mason, Loro Piana’s World of Shirts, or the Swiss maker Alumo’s Sartoria 1 and 2 collections.