In recent years we have seen a gradual shift in bespoke commissions, with Covid bringing about the biggest changes to work life and dressing. And, while the classic two piece bespoke suit remains our best seller, we’ve seen greater demand for suits with softer silhouettes and relaxed wearability, as well as increased orders for both smart and casual tailored separates.
Whatever the garment, all bespoke clothing is an investment, and as with any investment, should always be well looked after. Following these simple guidelines will not only preserve the shape and appearance of your garments but will also maximise their life span.
One of the big differences between bespoke clothing and ready-to-wear is that a bespoke garment’s shape will develop as it’s broken in. After the first few wears your garments will begin to settle. This is when you’ll get a much better feel for the fit. From here it’s important to maintain your garment’s shape and best upkeep via our recommendations below.
Dry Cleaning
Our advice is to do this as little as possible. Ideally, your bespoke garments should be dry cleaned no more than twice a year as the process uses chemicals that strip the natural oils found in the cloth. This damages the cloth and ultimately shortens the life of the garment. If the need for more cleaning were ever to arise, a good dry cleaner will be able to ‘spot clean’ any dirty areas.
It’s worth doing some research when selecting a dry cleaner, finding one accustomed to dealing with bespoke clothing. A good dry cleaner will bring out the shape in your garments rather than pressing them flat, as with ready to wear items. Regular pressing is fine and is considered best practice for the general care of bespoke suits and tailored garments.
Brushing
Your bespoke clothing should be regularly brushed, to ensure the cloth always looks its best. The process removes dirt, dust, and food particles. It also helps to redistribute the natural oils in the cloth fibres which will prolong the life of your bespoke clothing. We recommend lightly brushing after every wear, using a high quality, pure bristle brush – a selection of which are available to buy from our website.
Rotation
Another steadfast and fairly obvious rule in the bespoke garment wear and care armoury is rotation. Over wearing any garment is the best way to shorten its life. Resting and breathing in-between wear, as well as alternating with other clothing, will help to increase the life span of your bespoke wardrobe.
Storage
Use the best hangers you can afford. Wooden with rounded ends and a slight forward contour will help to keep shape in the shoulders of your jackets. A textured trouser crossbar will also prevent slippage to give the best hang for your trousers. Our beech wood garment hangers have been commissioned with bespoke clothing in mind. These can be bought via the website and in our London shops.
Another vital point – make sure you have enough space in your wardrobe, allowing your clothes to breathe. This also avoids creasing and stress to the garments, by too many garments being stuffed into a small space.
Sadly, moths are also an age old issue, as is the smell of mothballs! Our advice on this is to invest in a natural equivalent. Try introducing cedar wood or lavender to your wardrobe to keep them at bay.
Trouser Reforking
If you’re a heavy wearer of your trousers, be that suits or separates, often it’s the crotch that will be the first place to go. Should this happen, there is the option of inserting a replacement piece of cloth to ‘refork’ the trousers. A great way to extend the life of a trouser, this is a repair that can be repeated time and again.
Hopefully we’ve covered everything you need to know about caring for your bespoke clothing, but if you have any specific questions or require further advice, don’t hesitate to contact us directly.